Everything Is Rosy – A Look Back

May saw the introduction of a brand new Product Medley, on limited edition. I ran my exclusive Everything Is Rosy Masterclass towards the end of the month and we all had a great time working with these gorgeous products. Sadly they are no longer available, BUT…there is absolutely nothing stopping you having a go at one of our projects.

This beautiful mini album was inspired by a tutorial I saw by Helen Griffin on YouTube. Having wanted to try and make one myself I was immediately energised as soon as my Everything Is Rosy Product Medley arrived. I knew the paper would work perfectly with Helen’s project.

I adapted the measurements to suit the 6×6 Designer Series Paper in the Medley and also the chipboard that comes with it. If you have any of your Medley left then this may be the perfect project for you to use some more of it, and if you don’t…WELL…with the brand NEW Annual Catalogue there are plenty of gorgeous suites to choose from and you can have a go. Personally, I have my eye on the new Magnolia Lane Suite on pages 36-39.

You will need:

  • Cutting mat
  • Craft knife
  • Metal ruler
  • Wet Glue – Tombow
  • Adhesive tape – Tear’n’Tape
  • Chipboard – cut the following:
    • (2) 10.5cm x 10.5cm . (4½“ x 4½”)
    • (1) 10.5cm x 3.5cm . (4½“ x 1¾”)
  • DSP – cut the following:
    • 2 matching sheets            15cm x 15cm . (6” x 6”)
    • 1 piece for the spine        15cm x 10cm . (6” x 4”)
  • Card stock – cut the following:
    • Liner (1)                                 9.5cm x 24.5cm . (4” x 10¼“)
    • Inside pages – 1 each of:
      • 9.5cm x 19.5cm . (4” x 8¼”)
      • 9.5cm x 20.5cm . (4” x 8¾”)
      • 9.5cm x 21.5cm . (4” x 9¼”)
    • Page Mats (14)                   9cm x 9cm . (3½“ x 3½“)
  • Ribbon (1cm wide)      (2) 24cm . (9½“) and (2) 18cm . (7”)       
  • Cut and assemble all the required pieces ahead.
  • Score each of the inside page pieces at 9.5cm (4”) on the long side from both ends.  You should end up with a scored tramline in the centre of each piece that gets wider.
  • Fold and burnish these score lines well.
  • Add a good bead of glue all along the outside spine of the shortest piece, being careful not to allow any getting too near the crease lines.  This will avoid any ooze, which can cause sticky problems later.
  • Stick this inside page to the inside of the spine of the next size up, making sure to line it up perfectly in the centre of the new spine (there should be a 0.5cm (¼”) gap each side, and flush with the top and bottom edges.
  • Apply glue to the outside of this new spine as before and stick it inside the last and longest inside page in the same way.  Use your bone folder to work all the glue areas to ensure a tight fix.
  • Take each square page mat and apply glue to the back, sticking them in place on each of the 12 pages – you will have 2 left over for the inside cover later.  Put these and your inside booklet aside for now.
  • Next – create the hardback cover.  Take your three pieces of DSP.  Lay the two square pieces face up and side by side, marrying their edges perfectly together with no gap.  Do this on a piece of grid paper or with a ruler to make a note of where they meet in the middle.
  • Apply a healthy amount of Tombow Glue to the third and narrower piece of DSP, and lay it on top of the join perfectly central so that it over laps both of the underneath sheets by an even amount (this is why the ruler/grid paper is handy).  Spend time on getting them to line up well as this is crucial to a neat finish.
  • Flip this whole DSP cover over, so it is wrong side up.  Apply glue to the narrower piece of chipboard and stick it right in the centre of the DSP.  Again your ruler will ensure a neat alignment.
  • Measure and mark 0.5cm (¼”) gap on either side of this spine piece and glue and lay the square pieces of chipboard down on each side.  The gap needs to be at least this to make sure you can bend your cover in a moment so do not be tempted to make it any narrower.
  • Cut the corners off of the DSP on all four corners at a 45° angle but not too close to the chipboard.  You need a margin of 0.5cm or so from the corner.
  • Take your bone folder and gently score the DSP along the edge and very close to the chipboard on all four sides.  This will help you to fold the edges over neatly without cracking.
  • Apply plenty of glue to one of the long sides, avoiding getting too close the very corners to prevent oozing.  Gently bend and fold the side over and stick to the inside of the chipboard.  Start pushing it from the centre and work outwards to prevent any wrinkles forming.
  • Do the same for the opposite long side.
  • Before repeating the process on the short sides, take your bone folder again and press the little over lap at each corner down to help it tuck in as you fold the shorter sides.  When happy, go ahead and get the short sides folded over too.
  • Take your two 24cm ribbon pieces and adhere them to the inside of the hardback cover, halfway up the height of the book.  I like to do this with strong tear and tape strips applied under the ribbon and then on top.  Make sure you don’t apply the strips too close to the edge.  You want a 1cm margin at least.
  • With the other two ribbon pieces, apply the tape perfectly along the lines where the DSP joins and then wrap it inside by at least 4cm.  Lay the ribbon perfectly straight and tight along this line of tape.  Apply a couple of small strips over the ribbon at the back for extra strength.
  • Take your last piece cardstock that measures 9.5cm x 24.5cm and glue it securely and centrally on the inside, covering all the ribbon ends and the wrapped ends of DSP.
  • At this point you should have a lovely neat wrap around your chipboard.  Now with your bone folder gently and repeatedly work the gap between the spine and covers to create a crease.  As you gently form the crease, slowly bend the cover closed to a 90° angle only.  Do not over bend or do this stage too quickly.  You want to avoid any cracking.  It can help to run the bone folder along the reverse side of the crease as well.  Do this for both of the gaps and your album cover should now be formed.
  • At this point you should have a lovely neat wrap around your chipboard.  Now with your bone folder gently and repeatedly work the gap between the spine and covers to create a crease.  As you gently form the crease, slowly bend the cover closed to a 90° angle only.  Do not over bend or do this stage too quickly.  You want to avoid any cracking.  It can help to run the bone folder along the reverse side of the crease as well.  Do this for both of the gaps and your album cover should now be formed.
  • Collect your inside page booklet and apply glue as before to the spine.  Line it up perfectly with the inside of the cover and stick it down centrally to the inner spine.  Use your bone folder to work the contact points for strength.
  • Finally take your two remaining mats and adhere to the inside of the cover for a unified look.
  • Your album is now ready to decorate as you wish.  Fill it with photos, memories, or display stamping ideas.

Things to remember:

For my cardstock I used a close colour to the DSP for the inside pages and liner.  I then used a contrasting colour for the mats, but you can simply use Whisper White here.

I used a Tombow wet glue that dries tacky.  I like this as is gives some flexibility and wiggle room when attaching each section.  Tear & Tape Adhesive would work too, but be sure to really work your contact points with a bone folder so that it has no danger of detaching.

Mind the gap! – The gaps given are based on the chipboard I used in this project, and are essential for a clean bend on your cover.  Do not make your gaps too snug, but be aware that if you use thinner or thicker chipboard you may need to adapt this measurement accordingly.

Working your creases slowly and carefully is important to ensure a crack free finish – take your time here!